Nova Scotia, the Beginning of a New Life

It's done. We have left. Really! The waiting is over, the uncertainty is finished, no more delays, no more changes of plans. We have left. Our new life as a nomadic family begins. First stop: Halifax in Nova Scotia.

It's pitch dark. The whole world seems to be in a deep sleep... the whole world except François and me, who are kept alert by the excitement of departure. I gently lay Manoa, who is asleep, into bed and slip out of the room. We still have a few items on our checklist to confirm before leaving. François is loading the bags into the car while I dress Manoa, who is still sleeping.

The apartment is emptied, and its former occupants are now settled in the back seat of the car, their luggage in the trunk. We are heading to the station to catch the Thalys train to the Paris airport, from where our flight to Canada will depart...

Only one airline offers direct flights to Halifax, where our car shipped by cargo will arrive a few days after us. It was important for us, in keeping with our values, to limit the ecological impact of this journey. The shortest, most direct route with as few flights as possible. By train from Brussels to Paris, then only a 6.5-hour flight to the New World. A choice that is also suitable for our baby. The shorter the better (even though he was adorable during our long-haul flights to Japan).

Upon arriving at the Paris airport, we find the check-in desk. Euphoric, we smile dreamily at everyone we encounter. The attendant at the desk, initially all smiles, gradually changes expression, appearing troubled. She calls over a colleague, then another. >. Yes! We keep smiling, knowing everything is in order. I present my ticket on my phone. François is searching on his side. >. François is still looking. The tension rises. The local manager joins the fray and even calls the embassy for assistance. All the passport details are requested again. After endless minutes of waiting, during which Manoa took the opportunity to fall asleep in the baby carrier, the manager returns to us with a reassuring smile. > What was missing, why all these additional steps? A mystery... But the important thing is that we have our flight tickets in hand. What a relief! For a moment, we feared we would be stuck in Paris and miss our flight, losing our car pickup... The nightmarish domino effect where one disaster leads to another.

We take a deep breath, find our exaggerated smiles again, and leave the desk relieved. Other than that moment of tension, the rest of the wait and flight goes smoothly. Arriving in Halifax, we are warmly guided by the airport staff, who already make us feel all the care and kindness that has always touched us in Canada.

Yes, we are here!

Having picked up the rental car, we choose a motel not far from Halifax to take the time to recover from the journey and the exhausting last few days before departure, and to gently adapt to the time difference. Although the choice of motel was the most practical and economical, it was also an opportunity to verify all the clichés portrayed in American films and series. Outdated and simple décor, adequate comfort and cleanliness... and very unsatisfactory soundproofing at night, letting us enjoy the sounds produced by the passionate loves of neighboring rooms.

Fortunately, we picked a motel located just 4 minutes on foot from a restaurant >. If I had trouble finding sleep, I easily found comfort in their fabulously delicious dishes and desserts! That reassured the foodies in us: eating healthy, vegan, and... chocolate desserts is entirely possible in Canada!

The three days we spend in this motel fly by quickly, between strolling, tasty breaks, a visit to an indoor playground, and visiting the most iconic place in the Halifax area: Peggy's Cove.

The weather isn't very encouraging: only one sunny day is forecasted for the next week. We decided to take advantage of it to see the lighthouse at Peggy's Cove, about an hour's drive away. On a small road surrounded by water, trees, and wooden houses, we feel in Canada... or in Finland or Chilean Patagonia... In short, we feel far away, in an environment made of nature and space.

Once we arrive at our destination, Manoa, happy to leave his seat, observes everything around him with wide eyes. Everything is new here. The smell of the sea, the ocean breeze, the English language, the big vehicles, and even the songs of the birds. As we approach the lighthouse, smiles multiply around us, accompanied by >... reminiscences of Japan and the > (cute baby)!

The lighthouse appears, standing alone between two rolling deserts, one of water and the other of rock. The rocks surrounding the lighthouse, welcoming the ocean's waves, are of such beauty and softness that I can't help but stop in the middle of the path to admire them. Yes, the lighthouse is beautiful, the view of the sea is too. But the real star of the place, in my eyes, are these sandy-colored rocks.

Couples are kissing. Children are playing, joyfully jumping in the puddles between the rocks. Phones and cameras rise from all sides. It's a very touristic place... and very beautiful.

On the way back to the car, I spend long minutes watching the sea move along a pier and seabirds flying all around us. By taste, of course, but not only: my baby doesn't give me a choice! As long as he hasn't finished admiring the object of his contemplation, I can't hope to move him without triggering the alarm. Baby cries are persuasive! So I learn, a little more each day, to take my time and marvel at everything. The wonderful of daily life and the daily life of the wonderful.

Change of scenery: it's downtown for us! We leave the motel for the Homewood Suites by Hilton in Halifax... a completely different style! Manoa is delighted to be able to crawl around in our little apartment. And we are happy to benefit from super comfortable beds and, above all, good sound insulation!

We enjoy being located in the center to explore the city and some of its must-sees.

First stop, right near our accommodation: the citadel. Built in 1828 on a hill overlooking the harbor, the citadel was designed to protect the city and especially the naval base of the British Empire. With its star-shaped architecture, the citadel has managed to preserve, over time, its ramparts and cannons.

Different tours are available, self-guided or guided, with or without family-oriented activities. I chuckled to myself while reading the sign inviting children to come and experience being a new recruit, who would learn, among other things, how to stand still without moving... A new form of the game >, but even more effective?

The seaside promenade (Waterfront) is undoubtedly the must-see location in Halifax. Walking along with the blue sea on one side and colorful houses, seasonal vendor shacks, as well as walkways made of floating bridges and boardwalks on the other.

Manoa particularly loved the stop at the little submarine-shaped playground. A delightful moment surrounded by children and laughter.

According to what we could read on brochures and websites, several events are organized along the waterfront, such as a jazz festival. If you're passing through, check out the event calendar.

Several churches stand out in the urban landscape of Halifax. We didn't enter any but passed by several of them. The most renowned are St. Paul's Church, the oldest place of Protestant worship in Canada, and St. Mary's Basilica.

In the city's tourist documentation, I had read that their library was impressive and worth a visit. I love libraries! In my mind, an impressive library is akin to the one from the animated movie Beauty and the Beast, gigantic, made of wood, and with winding staircases (essential!). I was curious to see if this library met my criteria...

And not at all!

However, the architecture both inside and outside of this large glass building is nothing short of impressive. For those who like to take their time, a café welcomes book lovers on the ground floor and another at the top of the building, like one in a glass cube that stands out from the rest of the façade.

Speaking of colors, some streets in Halifax are full of them! Beautiful wooden facades in shades of blue, red, and green, slightly (or more) marked by time. Such charm!

Several museums are located in downtown Halifax. If you could only visit a few, the most recommended are: the maritime museum, the immigration museum, and the Discovery Center, especially recommended for families.

Halifax has a wonderful public park, with ample green space, beautiful flowers, fountains, and a bandstand that we promised ourselves to see... but the weather had other plans! That will have to wait for another time.

We discovered some amazing vegan restaurants in Halifax... and we treated ourselves! Here are our two favorites.

A bit outside of Halifax, close to our motel: M&J's, or how to feel welcomed! It's not a vegan restaurant, but their slogan > aims to be as inclusive as possible.

Special mention for their divine salads and the best invention ever: coconut bacon!

It's from the back seat of our car (nicknamed TARDIS for those who haven't followed the stories on Instagram, a tribute, of course, to the Doctor Who's faithful companion, and which means in our case >).

We have just left Nova Scotia and are now on the roads of Prince Edward Island. We still can't grasp the adventure we've just begun: two to three years of travel. A nomadic life, on the roads of the Americas, hoping to travel to the southernmost tip of South America.

More to come in the next episode!

P.S. If you have any questions about our trip, feel free to ask us in the comments. We'll answer them in a future article.

In partnership with the Halifax Tourism Office and Canada.