Nature and Timber Framing: Extended Weekend in Harz

More than just a desire, it's a need. A need to leave the four walls that shelter us from the cold winter winds. A need to show our baby that the world is beautiful, even when the cold turns the tip of his nose pink. A need to get some fresh air, even if just for a few days... And here we are, off to Harz, a region in Germany we had never visited before, to discover the cities of Wernigerode and Quedlinburg and the Harz National Park.

In winter, I've learned to love it as an adult. After my first trip to Canada, I returned in love with the white landscapes, the vast natural areas lying in hibernation, covered with a sheen of ice. Since then, each winter, I like to plan two trips: one to seek the sun and one to enjoy the wonders of winter. This year, we sought the sun in Spain. It was an opportunity to introduce our baby to François' family. And the marvelous winter, we found it here, in the Harz mountain region.

After exploring the south of Germany, both east and west, passing through the Saxon Switzerland, the Bavarian Alps, and Saarland; after discovering the North and its peninsulas and islands in the Baltic... we felt the need to travel to the center of this great country! This is how, a bit like throwing a dart on a world map, we settled on the Harz region, the cities of Wernigerode and Quedlinburg... and especially the natural beauties of this area. On the agenda: city trip, lynx, steam train, and suspension bridge!

If Manoa has traveled a lot, Germany, at just 5 and a half months (yes, the half counts at that age!), is her second trip. A journey that started off strong. Extreme hesitation in front of a runny nose and a little cough. To go? To stay? François, who was commissioned by the Tourism Office to take photos of the area, ultimately took the wheel alone in the morning. I stayed with Manoa, nice and warm at home.

In any case, that was the plan.

But those who follow our stories on Instagram know how little we ever stick to any plan! Our baby, who finds confinement as unbearable as her parents do, demands outings. I take her out several times throughout the day... until in the afternoon, François calls me from Wernigerode, at the foot of the Harz mountains.

You know, the weather is better here: it's less cold, there's less wind and less rain...

With Manoa feeling better, in no time, I quickly pack the bag I had unpacked that morning while François orders us a train ticket. And here I go with my baby on her first high-speed train ride to join her dad in Germany.

On the day of his arrival, François visited Wernigerode. From those Instagram stories, I loved the half-timbered houses and the colorful square in the heart of the old town. Once reunited, he tells me the history of this town that has suffered several major fires, reshaping entire neighborhoods. Several centuries and styles thus joyfully coexist.

But what often strikes visitors to Wernigerode is its castle, resembling something out of a fairytale... And for good reason, the architect purposely redesigned this building in the early 20th century to bring a touch of magic to the village. In short, the opposite process of the Neuschwanstein castle that I had seen in Bavaria, which is said to have inspired Disney.

If lynxes were a primary reason to travel to this region, the steam train did not leave François indifferent! It's simple, I think it's physically impossible for him to travel in an area with a steam train without at least going to take a look, or if possible, getting on board.

But our story with this steam train is not without its twists! Arriving early in the morning to board at Schierke station and travel to the summit of Brocken, we were denied the purchase of tickets... The line was cut due to excessive snow that had fallen overnight. The train would not go any further. Disappointed, we still enjoyed the pleasure of admiring this beautiful locomotive.

Since it seems impossible to know if or when the journey will be restored, we return to town for lunch, unaware at that moment that François' persistence would have us head back to the station early in the afternoon. And what a good idea! François positions himself to take the photo he dreamed of. I waited for him in the car with my sleeping baby, and I saw him return with a big smile on his face. Goal achieved!

Bonus info: it's a very popular spot for sledding enthusiasts!

This reserve, these lynxes, since I learned of their existence, I've only dreamed of them. I haven't had the chance to see these animals in person yet!

But that morning, the sky is low. It's foggy, drizzling, cold, and to top it off, the ground is slippery. I look at my little baby, so trusting, asleep with a smile on his face in his car seat, and I tell myself no, not this time. François takes a little lead and drops us off at our hotel in Quedlinburg. When he races back to the reserve, I make him promise to take lots of beautiful photos to share his adventure with us when he returns.

He promises. He drives to the cable car that drops him in the park. And he runs. He has little time left to arrive in time for the feeding hour of the lynxes, the only time they are easily visible near their reserve. On his way, he sees several hurried hikers fall, unbalanced by the icy snow. This journey, estimated to take 1 hour of hiking, he completes in half an hour while running. Breathless, happy, and excited at the idea of meeting these big cats, he positions himself and waits... Other curious visitors begin to gather in front of the reserve's limits and a member of the reserve appears to explain the behavior and raise awareness of the lynx's environment. Camera in hand, François enjoys the spectacle and doesn't miss a single yawn of these felines with such gentle expressions.

Practical information

The best way to observe the lynxes up close is to go during feeding time, which is Saturday at 2 PM.

When François dropped me off with Manoa while he went back to see the lynxes, I took the opportunity to get a little ahead and have a first contact with the city. Even before leaving the hotel, the view of the market square from my windows was enough to charm me and make me want to discover this city! Manoa in her baby carrier, bundled up in my large carrying coat, we went out to stroll through the pedestrian streets of the historic city center. Having not visited Wernigerode, I felt like I was reclaiming my right in half-timbered houses! This walk would be a treat for the eyes... and the stomach, with the chocolate cookies I found in a small shop.

The next day, a guided tour was scheduled. We met our guide at the market square, with Manoa sleeping in her carrier... This was, by the way, my pride of the day: managing to take her out of the carrier while she slept after a morning stroll, letting her take a 20-minute nap in the bed, then putting her back in the carrier and dressing her again to go out... all without waking her up!

Directly, I sensed a certain sparkle and passion from the guide who welcomed us. Her first words confirmed this impression:

• What would you like to see, what are your interests?

• What is beautiful, what is UNESCO...

• But everything is beautiful in Quedlinburg!

I feel like we've gained points by talking about the UNESCO status of her dear city. She begins by telling us that Quedlinburg is unique in many respects.

For example, it's a town that has never suffered a major fire. All the houses are intact, only marked by the passage of time that slightly refreshes some facades awaiting restoration. The town is an open-air museum for lovers of timber framing, of course, but also for architecture enthusiasts. Eras mix in the streets, and sometimes even on the same facade, which tries to keep up with the fashion by changing its appearance like one changes a wardrobe.

Our steps lead us toward the castle that overlooks the city. Our guide talks about the walls that once surrounded the city, which were removed to eliminate any idea of segregation. At the foot of the castle's buttresses, terraced gardens appear. We discover them covered in snow, but that doesn't stop me from imagining the pleasure it must be to stroll there under the summer sun and to sit on a little bench among the plants. These gardens were created by the neighborhood residents and are shared by all. A beautiful example of the rejuvenation emerging in Quedlinburg, with young adults motivated to enhance their neighborhood and its heritage while allowing it to evolve.

Our steps and words drift under the softly swirling flakes. From thread to thread, we approach the question of preserving heritage versus evolution. Preserve or innovate? Lose your past to create your future? Is it better to artificially freeze a city in its image from centuries past as protected heritage? Or to allow novelty at the cost of certain transformations? A fascinating topic that, I think, cannot be resolved with a simple and unique answer. There are as many answers as there are cities, neighborhoods, streets, and houses. As many answers as there are contexts and lives involved... By the way, if you have an opinion on the matter, I would be very interested to hear it in the comments.

From the heights of the castle terraces, we gaze upon the city below. My gaze is drawn to the orange roofs. All these roofs so different from each other, in their shape and size. So different that they form an improbable tableau... Like the impression of gazing at a child's drawing where the lines become curves. Or a living landscape, reminiscent of the architecture championed by Gaudi.

We leave the heights of the castle to descend through the more touristy area toward the market square. A few more beautiful streets, surprising houses, some with a slightly crooked air, a traditional brewery...

I also recall my surprise at discovering that this town was a member of the Hanseatic League... a lovely reminder of our previous trip to Germany, near the Baltic Sea.

I love suspension bridges. And François probably loves them even more than I do! During one of our first road trips as a couple, we took a significant detour in Andalusia to walk on the one in the Grenada region, in Monachil.

Nostalgia looking at these photos... and a sweet smile: while we've physically changed, we remain the same big kids inside! Since then, we have repeated the experience (notably in Japan, for our first incursion into Shikoku, where we are heading back in a few days for the pilgrimage!). And once again here, in Germany, with Manoa's first suspension bridge... And my little finger tells me that it won't be the last!

Why this love for suspension bridges? Perhaps too many viewings of Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom when I was a child. The thrill. The pleasure of the view...

The Titan RT lives up to its name: it is gigantic! At 458 meters, it is one of the longest suspension bridges for pedestrians in the world.

Practical information

Bonus: a zip line ride is also offered in the warmer season.

This extended weekend has been a breath of fresh air. An opportunity to feel connected to nature, but also to get lost in the turns of pretty cobblestone streets, looking up and focusing on the details of the lovely houses surrounding us.

Beautiful family memories that we will gradually create... You can also relive this getaway in pictures in the Instagram stories.

In partnership with the German and Harz Tourism Offices.