Lima, a Capital to Embrace

Lima, the capital of Peru, is never indifferent ... and rarely wins the favor of tourists. My first trip to this city tended to align with the general opinion ... However, this second stay in the capital allowed me to discover new attractions and see it from a fresh perspective.

During our first stay in Lima (in 2013), my impression of the capital was quite negative. I spoke of it in less than flattering terms:

Like all capitals, Lima is large, overpopulated, and noisy. The small pedestrian center offers a bit of respite, surrounded by buildings that have a soul and a story. But as soon as you stray from there, you find yourself surrounded by skyscrapers and large chains of stores and fast food, the same as back home.

Of course, the center of Lima still fits this description. But Lima is a gigantic city with very contrasting neighborhoods. During this second stay, we were welcomed in Miraflores and discovered new aspects of the city.

Lima is also a city full of history: Pizarro and the Spanish conquistadors, the Incas ... Layers of human history to explore, like peeling an onion, layer by layer ...

The cathedral is magnificent, and regarding the convents and churches in the downtown area, I recommend two: San Francisco and Santo Domingo (founders of the Franciscan and Dominican orders).

The cathedral is worth a visit. Be sure to go with a guide, as this cathedral is interesting for more than one reason, and you might miss its secrets. The entrance ticket also allows you to visit the Archbishop's palace, right next door.

In practical terms: Address: Jr. Carabaya cuadra 2 s/n, on the Plaza de Armas Price: 10 soles Hours: 9 AM to 5 PM, Monday to Friday; Saturday from 10 AM to 1 PM; Mass: Saturday from 9 AM to 10 AM and Sunday from 11 AM to 12 PM.

From the San Francisco monastery, I particularly remember its splendid wooden library, which has multiple levels with spiral staircases (a childhood dream!).

In practical terms: Address: at the intersection of Los Jirones Ancash and Lampa Price: 7 soles Hours: 9:30 AM to 5:30 PM every day

The Santo Domingo church is also very beautiful. Its uniqueness: the visit to the catacombs, the largest in the city.

In practical terms: Address: Jr. Camaná 170 - Lima Cercado Price: 5 soles Hours: 9:30 AM to 5:30 PM every day; night visits every last Friday of the month from 7 PM to 9 PM

Lima is full of museums: it's impossible to visit them all! For example: the National Afro-Peruvian Museum, the Museum of the Nation, the Gold Museum, the Museum of Italian Art, the Museum of Popular Arts and Traditions, the Museum of Peruvian Culture, and the Museum of Japanese Immigration ... In short, there are many and for every taste. Here I will give you an overview of the ones we visited.

I particularly recommend two major museums in the city: the Rafael Larco Herrera Museum, especially known for its erotic collection, and the Museum of Archaeology and Anthropology of Peru.

Founded by Rafael Larco Hoyle, this museum showcases pieces from pre-Columbian civilizations, with a beautiful collection of Mochica ceramics.

Two major highlights of this museum:

• its reserve, where thousands of pieces are stored on shelves, from floor to ceiling. This allows you to realize how museums only display a tiny part of their collection ... and how rich Peru is in archaeological remains!

• its erotic collection, where reproductive and non-reproductive positions are represented for educational purposes. I had never seen anything like it before, and I found it very interesting!

In practical terms: Address: Avenida Bolivar 1515, Pueblo Libre, Lima Price: 30 soles Hours: 9 AM to 10 PM, open every day (including holidays)

A must-visit museum that traces the history of Peru from the earliest traces of human activities. It also has a very nice collection.

In practical terms: Address: Plaza Bolivar, Cnr San Martin & Vivanco, Pueblo Libre, Lima Price: 10 soles Hours: 9 AM to 5 PM from Tuesday to Saturday, 9 AM to 4 PM on Sunday

The Peruvian Gastronomy Museum traces the history of food, consumed since the first civilizations ... And gives ideas for dishes to try!

In practical terms: Address: Jr. Conde de Superunda 170, near the Plaza de Armas Price: at the time, entry was free, but in 2014, the price was apparently 3 soles Hours: 9 AM to 5 PM, closed on Mondays

We were fortunate to admire a small part of a private collection from a man who, in 30 years, has gathered over 2000 pieces from across the country. With gloves, we even got to touch these pieces: a unique experience!

For this visit, contact Guy Vanackeren from Aventura Latino America (information at the bottom of the article).

There are many archaeological sites to visit around Lima, such as Huaca Pucllana, Pachacamac, Puruchuco, Incahuasi, Paramonga, Cajamarquilla, Huallamarca, Huaca Julliana, Maranga, Pariachi ... More information can be found on the Visita Lima site of the Metropolitan Municipality of Lima.

Pachacamac is undoubtedly the most famous archaeological site in Lima. Located 31 km from the capital, this pre-Inca site covers over 460 hectares. Pachacamac was an important religious pilgrimage center, occupied by several civilizations: Lima, Wari, Yshma, and Inca. Today, you can admire several pyramids, palaces, temples, plazas, and streets.

Pachacamac is the name of a god meaning ">. When he became angry, he could cause terrible earthquakes.

The Incas had the intelligence, when they conquered the territory, not to destroy local beliefs, but to build an even taller and more imposing temple than those that existed, dedicated to their god, to represent his supremacy.

In practical terms: Address: km 31.5 of the old Panamerican South - Lurín Price: 10 soles; 20 soles for a guide (Spanish, English, and French) Hours: 9 AM to 5 PM (Tuesday to Saturday), 9 AM to 4 PM on Sunday; closed on Mondays

Huaca Pucllana is a site located in the city, in the Miraflores district. Before it gained attention from archaeologists, it was popular among the youth in the area for ... biking and dirt biking! The pyramids suffered greatly from these activities, with some parts of the site covered by nearby housing. But the cleared areas, along with the small site museum, merit a visit.

For the visit, it is required to be accompanied by a site guide.

In practical terms: Address: Calle General Borgoño cuadra 8, Miraflores, Lima Price: 12 soles; 5 soles for students Hours: 9 AM to 4:30 PM (closed on Tuesdays)

More than 2000 well-preserved mummies have been discovered at this site: an Inca cemetery. One of the finest discoveries of its kind! And during our visit, the archaeologists had found even more mummies.

The museum is not very large, but it is very interesting, clear, and educational.

In practical terms: Address: 13 km from downtown Lima (better to take a taxi) Price: 5 soles; 20 soles for a guide Hours: 9 AM to 4 PM (closed on Mondays)

The city center is certainly worth visiting, but don't pass through Lima without strolling through the neighborhoods of Miraflores and Barranco.

A neighborhood favored by travelers and expatriates, I really enjoyed its oceanfront promenade, with its Love Park and its benches reminiscent of Park Güell from Barcelona. Its shopping center is surprising: you feel like you're in the West.

Barranco, the artists' district, with its colorful little houses, winding streets, and cafés ... An atmosphere I adore! The perfect place to go out on a weekend evening.

For more information on Lima and its neighborhoods, I invite you to visit Vanessa's blog (Travel Peru): a blogger we love who knows Lima like the back of her hand!

In the surroundings of Lima, there are several sites worth visiting, such as Callao, Huancayo, or further north, Caral, and south, Paracas.

As a bonus in Lima, Callao, its islands: El Frontón, San Lorenzo, El Cabezo ... and especially its >. The opportunity for a sea ride (a bit monotone) and a swim with thousands of unshy sea lions: definitely a great moment!

A good agency to go with: Ecocruceros.

The company Ferrocarril Central Andino connects Lima to Huancayo. A journey that reaches an altitude of 4829 m above sea level, the second highest point in the world for a train trip. The train does not have a regular service but runs once or twice a month from April to October. We arrived just before the last trip of the year, but unfortunately, there were no seats left ... That will be for next time!

I have reserved a whole article on this civilization, and it well deserves it: it is the oldest in the Americas! Several sites of the Caral civilization are worth visiting, about 3 hours by bus from Lima.

In addition to the classic visits and discovering Peruvian gastronomy, some activities are offered to tourists to explore the city and the region: biking, paragliding, surfing, diving ... It's apparently the only place in the world where you can paraglide so close to the skyscrapers: a unique experience that we hope to attempt next time!

Getting around Lima can be done by taxi, micro (minibus), or bus. Bus lines (>) have been created to connect the downtown area quickly.

There is no central bus terminal for the capital. The bus companies each have their terminal or are grouped according to their destinations, either north or south of Peru. Many companies are concentrated at Terminal Plaza Norte and on Avenida Javier Prado.

The Peruvian gastronomy is worth trying. Of course, sampling street food for 5 soles is an interesting adventure while traveling ... But in Peru (as elsewhere), prices vary depending on the quality and refinement of the cuisine.

Here are some good addresses where you can confidently explore Peruvian gastronomy and give it every chance to charm you!

A very good restaurant located in the shopping center of Miraflores, with a buffet ideal for trying a bit of everything, from ceviche to lomo saltado ... with a focus on quality local cuisine.

Address: C.E. Larcomar, Miraflores, Lima, Peru

A chain of restaurants, Embarcadero 41 in Miraflores has a very pleasant atmosphere: a hint of vacation with its bamboo ceiling. The opportunity to taste Peruvian specialties and Fusion cuisine.

Address: Av. Mariscal La Mar 456; open every day only for lunch (from 12 PM to 5 PM)

A unique restaurant, a small house lost amid the large buildings: Saqra has a very pleasant concept, serving high-quality cuisine in a relaxed setting. Everything is a nod to play: the decor, the furniture, the presentation of the dishes ... Special mentions for the tataki (fish > cut very thin, influenced by Japanese styles), the trout tartare (to die for!), their fruity cocktails with Pisco, and especially, especially, their dessert >, little bombs that explode in your mouth: guaranteed taste orgasm!

Address: Av. La Paz 646, Miraflores, Lima

A very good address for those missing quality European cuisine: wines, charcuterie, sun-dried tomatoes ... All in an old-fashioned setting. We enjoyed Peruvian wines and cheeses: a delightful discovery. Sabrina, the owner, is charming and invests in culinary movements, such as slow food.

Address: Calle Libertad 439, Miraflores, Lima (Monday: 3 PM to 9 PM, Tuesday to Saturday: 11 AM to 9 PM; closed on Sundays)

A restaurant where we were invited to follow a cooking class; an opportunity to also visit the kitchens and discover the behind-the-scenes of the restaurant. A lovely discovery: an impeccable restaurant, flawless service, and a welcoming staff. They serve classic Peruvian cuisine: we had the chance to try to make a ceviche and a lomo saltado ... We're still licking our fingers!

Address: Calle Los Petirrojos 325, Corpac, San Isidro, Lima

A typical bar-restaurant where you can enjoy sandwiches accompanied by a (or several!) glasses of Pisco: there's something for everyone. The place is worth visiting just for its staff: charming and with a sharp sense of humor!

Address: Av. Almirante Miguel Grau 270, Barranco, Lima, Peru

I confidently recommend this agency to anyone who, from our Western countries, hesitates to embark on the adventure of a trip to Peru. Should you go on your own or with a tour? This agency offers a fully customized package based on travelers' expectations while providing them with advice. Having lived in Peru for decades, Guy Vanackeren and his wife Carine, the agency managers, are also guides and passionate about Peruvian and South American culture and history. A pleasure to talk with them: they are living encyclopedias!

Their website: Aventura Latino America

And for the curious, here's a very informative site created by this same agency, where you'll discover their big tourism project: Inka Llacta. We can only hope they succeed in realizing this grand project!

Lima is a gigantic city, with very distinct neighborhoods and overflowing with activities for tourists: don't turn your back too quickly on the Peruvian capital, as you would miss much of the history and culture of this beautiful country.

And you, have you visited Lima? Any tips or good ideas to share?