Climbing Mount Misen in Miyajima: An Adventure!

The famous activity we didn't do during our first trip due to time constraints, which we were looking forward to experiencing before sharing our impressions on Miyajima. Because they say you haven't truly experienced Miyajima until you've climbed Mount Misen... And we confirm that this hike allowed us to discover a new side of the island! We're sharing our experience along with practical information to prepare your trip to Japan.

There are 4 ways to reach the summit of Mount Misen, the highest point on the island of Miyajima: 1 by cable car and 3 on foot.

For those who prefer to avoid a long walk, the cable car is a beautiful option.

You can start by taking a free bus that connects every 20 minutes from the center of Miyajima to the Momijidani cable car station.

Then, the ascent is divided into two stages:

1. From Momijidani to the intermediate station Kayatani: 10 minutes of travel, cabins for 4 to 6 people, every minute

2. From Kayatani to the terminal station Shishiiwa: 5 minutes of travel, larger cabin, frequency every 15 minutes

Finally, from Shishiiwa, you should plan for a half-hour walk to reach the summit of Mount Misen.

In practice Fare: 1000 yen one way and 1800 yen round trip Hours: from 9 AM to 5 PM or 5:30 PM

And for walkers, three hiking trails lead to the summit:

1. Momiji

2. Daisho-in

3. Omoto

The first trail, the Momiji, is reputed to be the easiest... even though my in-laws who took it tell us it's not that simple! It's advisable not to start too quickly.

It takes about 1.5 to 2 hours, following the river, and covers 2.5 km. It also has the great advantage of leading to the cable car station. So if along the way you realize it's not for you, there's a way not to just turn back.

The second trail is of moderate difficulty... despite its 2000 steps! It is the brightest of the three, and its path is lined with Buddha statues, adding a special charm to the hike. It takes about the same time as the first trail to reach the summit, and it stretches over 3 km.

We only hiked the very beginning of this trail, up to Daisho-in Temple, as well as its end, since trails 2 and 3 overlap on the last section starting from the Niomon gate.

And finally, the third and last trail: the Omoto. It is reputed to be the most difficult and the longest of the three trails... and thus the one we chose! It is 3.5 km long and takes about 2 to 2.5 hours of hiking. Given that it's the most rugged path, guides recommend wearing good shoes for this route.

With all our photo and video stops, and walking at a decent pace, we took 2 hours and 15 minutes.

We loved this hike! The atmosphere of this forest, in visual, sound, and olfactory terms, made us feel like we were all alone in the world, far from any civilization. And we weren't far from it, as we didn't encounter anyone along our way. This is due to the fact that it's the longest and most challenging trail, but also the least maintained and the one with the fewest temples and other signs of human construction.

The only living beings that manifested were... the animals!

Our encounter with a wild boar was undoubtedly the most epic (and surprising) memory of this adventure! While we were still in the first third of our hike, suddenly, we heard the sound of leaves being crushed and hooves starting to gallop. A few meters away from us, a wild boar that had spotted us just before we spotted it! My heart was racing at 100 beats per minute!

It sprang from its hiding place and dashed across a large rock (without giving us time to reach for our camera). Given the size, weight, and tusks of the animal, I'm glad it chose to flee rather than attack! Anyway, for the rest of the hike, we didn't hesitate to hum some childish tunes, both to give ourselves courage and to make ourselves known to our four-legged friends. At the moment, we were laughing a lot less at the hikers we had seen a few days earlier in the Alps, with the bell hanging from their backpacks to ward off bears!

And the story doesn't stop there: about half an hour later, as we climbed our thousandth step (at least!), François lets out a huge scream that echoes throughout the forest. Being behind him, I see nothing. Is it a wild animal? Another boar? Surprised, I slip to his side and discover a few steps above us... a deer! Just a deer!

Just as surprised as we were, it seemed frozen in place, blocking our path with its body and antlers. But after showing a white flag, we were granted a pass along with our new friend.

My favorite part of this hike via the Omoto trail was the intermediate summit we climbed: Mount Komagabayashi. The second highest mountain on the island, it offers a magnificent view of Mount Misen and Hiroshima Bay.

Beautiful pines with vacation aromas, warm orange rocks... It's really beautiful and, as a bonus, there's absolutely nobody there!

Once at the top of this first mountain, our journey continues! After climbing Mount Komagabayashi, we now need to... go back down to climb Mount Misen! We leave the bright peaks to return to the shade of the trees, still accompanied by these gigantic stones. Luckily, I'm in good company...

Once at the summit, 535 meters above sea level, a magnificent unobstructed view of the bay awaits the hiker. A beautiful reward!

Huge rocks await you, along with an observatory offering a beautiful view of the bay. On clear days, it seems you can even catch a glimpse of the mountains of Shikoku. But due to the surrounding mist, we didn't have that chance. We found the atmosphere of the observatory and the summit in general to be very zen.

Beyond the viewpoint, there are several temples and shrines to see, and still some steps to climb here and there to explore them all. Keep your courage!

Among others, you'll find the 7 Wonders of Mount Misen:

1. Shakujo-no-ume: the plum tree of the prayer stick

2. Shigure-zakura: the cherry tree continually covered in dew

3. Kiezu-no-hi: the eternal fire that has burned for 1200 years

4. Ryuto-no-sugi: literally the cedar of sea fires

5. Kanman-iwa: the tide rock

6. The sound of hyoshigi: ensuring a curse to those who hear it, so we prefer to skip that Wonder!

7. Mandara-iwa: the Mandala Rock, engraved with Sanskrit characters

And next to these 7 Wonders, there are still other temples, pavilions, and natural curiosities. Like the Kannondo pavilion, where they pray for an easy childbirth. Or the Sankido temple, the only temple dedicated to a demon! You can really feel, through these places of interest to the Japanese, their love for nature and their sense of observation of its manifestations. A walk in a forest fairyland akin to Ghibli!

For more information about these places, read this article from the Miyajima Tourism Office about their significance and legend.

Maps of the hiking paths are available at the Tourism Office and on their website. The restrooms are as well marked as the temples and altars to visit along the way!

Wear good shoes, bring water, and depending on the season, some insect repellent. Finally, even if you plan to walk both ways, always take along enough to pay for the return cable car, just in case!

Signs along the trail warn against a venomous snake: an Asian viper called >, whose bite is lethal. We didn't see the one in the photo (just a plain black snake that was thinner). Without falling into paranoia, be attentive and remember the number 119 to call in case of emergency.

This hike to Mount Misen allowed us to rediscover Miyajima, and not just because of its viewpoint. Hiking through the Omoto forest, encountering wild animals, watching the play of light through the branches upon reaching the summit, inhaling the various scents of the woods-from the warm, humid one to the fresh and fragrant pines, passing by the Japanese maples... A whole new picture for us of the island of Miyajima. An experience I highly recommend!

I invite you to check out the French websites of the Miyajima Tourism Office and that of the Hiroshima Tourism Office. You'll find plenty of information to plan your stay, including a map of the island and hiking trails to the top of Mount Misen.

In partnership with the Hiroshima Tourism Office.

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