Petra: a wonder carved in stone and sand

Petra, beautiful Petra. I dreamed of you. And finally, here you are.

When the opportunity arose to travel to Jordan, my heart raced. That very evening, we watched a classic film to set the mood...

You don't discover Petra: you already know it. The backdrop of so many films, books, comics ... Everyone has seen images of this (new) wonder of the world.

Petra ... I walk towards you in search of your Treasure, yet you have so much more to offer my novice eyes.

I didn't think I could be surprised by this site, as images of this wonder are everywhere online. And yet ... From the first step into the canyon, I am breathless. Surprised... to be surprised! This labyrinth of stone in the desert seems surreal: it cannot be the mere handiwork of Nature. It is a cinematic backdrop through which I advance.

For to reach the famous ruins, the pilgrim must go to the gates of the Wadi Rum desert and take a gorge that is one kilometer long. As I walk down this well-trodden path, with walls rising up to 200 meters high, I feel enchanted by the rocky walls: their colors, their textures...

These stones seem alive, in motion. They guide me, they speak to me. I cannot resist the urge to touch them and photograph them, to immortalize their beauty and power.

The tourists around me seem to walk with heavy steps. Perhaps it is due to the heat and the length of the journey.

Lost in wonder, I do not want to move forward. But I feel swept away... Perhaps it is by one of the torrents that have flooded this gorge, sculpting the stone and giving it an impression of fluid movement.

It is impossible to visit Petra without being absorbed by the past, swept away on a journey through time. Let us go more than 2,000 years back, to meet the Nabataeans.

Once again, I lament the lack of cultural awareness of the history of other continents during my education: I know little or nothing about this civilization that captivates my imagination. It is the spirit carried by the mysterious aura of the stones and the history of the Nabataean civilization that drives my steps through the canyon, until...

Our guide stops us for a guessing game:

What animal does this stone we see high on the walls resemble?

A monkey? A puma? A dog? An elephant?

Everyone offers their interpretation while our guide invites us to step back, keeping a close eye on the rock in the distance.

Step back, step back some more ... Do you see it better? No?

Now, turn around!

Breath taken away, uncontrollable smile: we are at the entrance of the final stretch before the Treasure of Petra! We laugh, both at the guide's joke and our own foolishness. We simply laugh with joy. Finally, after this scorching walk, our quest is nearing its end.

The last rocks make us play hide-and-seek with the facade of the building. Petra still keeps us waiting. I advance, measuring my pace for these last few meters, prolonging the pleasure...

And finally, I am there, dazzled by the brightness of the sun and the beauty of Al Khazneh.

Spellbound. I am spellbound. The guide tries to speak to me, to get my attention, but I can't hear him.

Amandine is absent for the moment, please leave a message.

Like after any long separation, seeing a loved one again is an emotional affair.

Moved, speechless, I stand frozen before you. The world around me no longer exists. Just you and me ... And that Indiana Jones hat on legs (a.k.a. François) who comes to pay you special tribute.

François gently nudges me to keep moving, I let myself be guided, my eyes always fixed on this impressive facade. Everything about her pleases me. Her silhouette, her pink-orange colors, her shapes, the finesse of her features, her mysterious aura ... I am in love.

The Treasure of Petra has a very particular architecture. Its harmony felt at first glance masks the mix of influences hidden in its facade. Yet, when detailed, the Oriental and Hellenic styles emerge through the columns, sculptures, and details.

This impressive dwelling was directly sculpted from the rock, carved into the mountain. You feel small in front of the imposing facade standing 43 meters tall, especially when considering the quality of the work done thousands of years ago.

There is more than Al Khazneh at this UNESCO site: an entire city awaits the curious who have the strength to leave the Treasure to continue their journey. Roman ruins, royal tombs, caves, gigantic squares adorned with columns ... For me, it is a true discovery to admire this ancient troglodyte city, little highlighted in the shadow of the glorious Treasure.

The Nabataeans were an ingenious people, capable of surviving in this desert land. And more than just surviving, they developed a resplendent city, becoming a crucial stop for caravans.

But why did the caravan routes pass through Petra?

The Nabataeans demonstrated immense genius, evidenced by their constructions that still stand today. Beyond the beauty of their architectural works, this people also mastered water management. By channeling it and creating cisterns, they never ran out, turning Petra into a true oasis, complete with a gigantic reservoir and gardens providing refreshing shade ...

Thus, along the gorge, you can follow the channels carved into the wall up to Al Khazneh. Besides this visible part, there is also a system of supply and retention canals, with bronze and lead pipes capable of pressurizing water to feed fountains.

Petra continues to intrigue: it would still take decades (and considerable sums) to fully excavate the site. Of primary importance to the history of Jordan, Petra is also a significant place for Arab countries and all of Humanity, as the Arabic alphabet is said to have originated here.

After seeing it under a blazing sun, with temperatures exceeding 40° in the shade, we return to traverse the canyon in the coolness of the night, amidst hundreds of candles' light.

From the site's gates, my steps retrace the path of the >. I would love to be enchanted by the charm of the intimate lighting, but I cannot. Too many people, too much noise, too many smartphone lights break the myth. The icing on the cake: the guard stationed halfway through discreetly reminds me of the >. What an atmosphere!

We finally arrive, swept away by the flow of tourists, at the end of the path: the Treasure. Rugs are laid directly on the ground and we are invited to take a seat. Surprised, I happily accept the delightful tea offered before the start of the show, all while admiring Al Khazneh in the candlelight.

A captivating music rises. The first musician is followed by a second... The palpable impatience from the audience and the repeated gunshots (I would later learn that several weddings were being celebrated that day) pulls me out of my reverie, the flames no longer dance. Fortunately, my precious Treasure, you remain true to yourself, dazzling even under a starlit sky.

From the city of Petra, it is a 2-kilometer walk to reach the troglodyte city. To get to the restaurant located at the end of the archaeological site, one should expect a 2.5-hour journey.

One day is not enough, in my opinion, to take the time to explore Petra, given the vastness of the site on one hand, but also due to the intense heat on the other, which slows the pace of walking.

Ideally, I could spend 4 days to (attempt to) fully explore this city with its hundreds of tombs carved into the rock... But I think for most visitors, unless they are passionate about History and ancient stones, 2 days are sufficient.

Petra can be visited as an independent traveler or accompanied by one of the guides waiting at the entrance of the site. For those who might be deterred by the walk, it is possible to take the route by donkey, horse, camel, or carriage (no motorized vehicles).

Once in the >, this leads directly to the Treasure. Afterwards, there are many paths climbing along the walls to explore the site.

For more practical information to prepare a trip to Jordan, I will soon publish an article >.

Petra, I dreamed of you so much that I added you to my Bucket List. If my reunion with this old friend was intense, it was unfortunately much too brief. A day and a night are not enough to explore this ancient troglodyte city as I would like.

One thing is certain, Petra, my beautiful: we will meet again!

In partnership with the Jordan Tourism Board.