Unknown Thailand: Trang and its islands

Thailand is a country where I immediately feel, instinctively, at home... and where, paradoxically, my heart seems forever torn in a great split between its love for the North and its lush valleys, and the South and its paradise beaches. But ultimately, who said one has to choose? What I love about Thailand: everything! But today, we are heading south, following the trails of the beaches and islands we discovered during our second trip to Thailand, in the Trang region: Koh Kradan, Koh Mook, and Pak Men Pier.

So, who is ready for a dose of blue skies, turquoise seas, and palm-fringed beaches?

Trang, the southernmost region of Thailand where we have set foot so far, as our previous trip took us a bit further north, to the Surat Thani region with the beautiful islands of Koh Tao and Koh Samui.

While we could find ourselves alone with our feet in the water on some beaches of those beautiful islands, it is nothing compared to our experience in these southern islands. And that was one of the main reasons for this second trip: to discover Thailand off the beaten path.

On the agenda: boat rides between the islands and mangroves, paradise beaches, blazing sunsets, rides on mototaxis, swimming in a pirate cave, and planting seaweed to feed the manatees. Relaxation, adventure, nature, and volunteering all condensed into a memorable trip!

The first stop of our journey in the Trang region: the island of Koh Kradan. I will never forget the feeling after leaving the wooden pier in that motorboat and zigzagging between islands and islets, when I dipped my feet in the water jumping from the boat to reach this soft, floury white sand beach... A little glimpse of paradise! It's no wonder this island has the reputation of having the best beaches in the province!

Koh Kradan is a peaceful... and touristy island: there is no village on the island, just a few hotels and resorts occupying part of the island, leaving the rest for adventurous walkers. The main attraction of Koh Kradan, besides its tranquil atmosphere and beautiful beaches, is its proximity to the Emerald Cave on the island of Koh Mook.

And another attraction of this island: its clear and fish-filled waters. We wanted to do some scuba diving there, but unfortunately, we had to make a choice in our itinerary, between waking up early to head to the Emerald Cave and diving... and we chose to forgo the latter. But we'll make it up (we have very fond memories of our dives in Koh Tao!).

In practice: To get to Koh Kradan, one can leave from the Hat Pak Meng pier to take a boat (30 mins). The only drawback to our stay: the waste on the beach. Apparently, it belongs to the tourist boats that cruise the area. It is picked up several times a day by hotel staff (at least for the portions that concern them), but it's really unfortunate to see this. Do not hesitate to be particularly careful when you are at sea to not let anything slip overboard and to raise awareness among people around you about sustainable and responsible tourism.

Koh Mook (or Koh Muk), > in Thai, features fine sandy beaches lined with turquoise waters on one side and coconut trees on the other. For enthusiasts, the two most famous beaches on the island are those of the Koh Mook Sivalai Beach Resort at the tip of the peninsula (where we went for a walk and which made us dream), and Hat Farang Beach (or Charlie's Beach, named after the large resort located there), with a magnificent view of the rocky islands that seem to float in the sea, an ideal spot to admire the sunset.

But what mainly distinguishes it from Koh Kradan is its activity: an island that lives to the rhythm of motorbikes, boats, and children's laughter. During a ride in a sidecar mototaxi, we climbed to gain altitude and explore the heights of the island before descending on the opposite shore while passing by villages on stilts, a market, a school, and forests with tall, slender trees reaching up to a bright blue sky. It's this blend of postcard beaches and the life of the Moken people (former sea nomads who are now settled and primarily Muslim) that particularly charmed me on this island with its unique atmosphere.

And Koh Mook would not be Koh Mook without Tham Morakot, aka > ! The boat takes us to an opening in the rocky wall: the waves of the sea crash in with a worrying roar. Moment of hesitation: are you sure we go in there? And off we go into the water, looking elegant in our bright orange life jackets, moving with the waves and entering what must be the lair of a purring dragon or a giant squid (yes, I've seen too many horror marine films when I was little!). The further we progress into the rock, the louder the sound of the sea intensifies, and the dimmer the light becomes until we are left in complete darkness, allowing our overflowing imaginations to run wild (What was that? I touched something! Oh it's you... Are you sure there's no squid?).

And then suddenly, around a bend, the glimmer at the end of the tunnel: we swim towards the light and discover, eyes squinting, the secret hideout inside the rock. A real pirate's lair! The vegetation seems to both climb the rock and cascade down. A few trees with roots embedded in this small fine sandy beach: so, where's the treasure?

Without hesitation, an adventure to experience: guaranteed emotions! (PS: Don't read > or watch > the day before!)

In practice: To discover the Emerald Cave, take a tour that leaves as early as possible to avoid arriving at the > of other tour boats. You can get to Koh Mook by boat (30 mins) from the Kuan Thung Ku pier, 9 km from Trang.

Back to the mainland for a completely different adventure: meeting the Bor Hin community in the Amphore Sikao region of Trang. This community has opened itself to the world in an effort for alternative tourism and environmental promotion. At Bohin Farm Stay, travelers share their daily life in their stilt house, tasting their typical cuisine, and have the opportunity to engage in good deeds, whether it's teaching English to children... or helping the manatees. You know, those adorable animals that are half mermaid, half sea cow!

This village has a small museum to raise awareness about the fragility of the environment for these animals, especially since the tsunami of 2004, which largely destroyed the natural habitat of this beautiful creature. Since then, the number of manatees living in the area has dangerously decreased. This community has taken the initiative to grow and replant seaweed, the favorite snack of their little protégés.

But before leaving to plant the seaweed, while waiting for the low tide, we are embarked in a motor kayak, ready to explore the interior of the mangroves that protect the village and the unique fauna that lives there. An opportunity for a walk accompanied by the singing of birds on a small wooden path amid tropical trees emerging from the marshes surrounding us. The boat outing doesn't stop there: our hosts take us for a magnificent cruise in Ao Bun Kong Bay amidst the rocky islets that abound in the area: a real postcard scene!

And finally, the end of the day is approaching and, with it, the low tide: the perfect time to plant seaweed for the manatees in Klong Son Bay. I loved the positive energy that radiated that afternoon on the beach: all these young locals came to help plant the precious seaweed... and who, with smiles and kindness, made a little room for us next to them so that we could try our hands at it! And here I am, crouched on the humid sand where the sea is already starting to reclaim its territory, analyzing the technique for planting: marking squares to grid the area, digging in the sand with a plastic tube, and planting the roots to a certain depth, repeating and planting 16 per square... The young girls crouched beside me giggle at my clumsiness with kindness. With the last plant secured, we all joyfully head back to the village.

This moment had already reached, at least I thought, a rare degree of perfection... but that was without counting on the spectacle of the sunset. I have no words to describe how beautiful it was! The water trapped on the sand offered a mirror in which golden rays reflected illuminating the islets scattered throughout the landscape of the bay: magnificent! It's no wonder it topped my list of best memories from 2016 and I immediately declared it one of the most beautiful sunsets of my life. Just like that! And this beautiful day ends gloriously on the Andaman coast at the Si Kao hotel, for a delightful evening with delicious flavors to the sound of rolling waves. A perfect day!

In practice: For a trip into the mangroves, it's best to wear long clothing and bring insect repellent.

We stayed in a hotel directly on the beach, with wooden bungalows shaded by small trees along the shore: in short, a really nice setting! But we had a few reservations during this experience, the first being the value for money. Then, while most of the hotel staff were welcoming and lovely, the same couldn't be said for the owner. One last point to mention for the phobics of every kind: the toilets and showers are outside. They are private, attached to the bungalow, but nonetheless out in the open, making them accessible to insects such as mosquitoes and cockroaches. Generally speaking, concerning antennaed creatures, they don't get too close: the little ones are afraid of the bigger ones!

The hotel is available on Booking and on Agoda.

A hotel of a completely different caliber than the previous one, but with incredible charm and a divine view! It's simple, it's part of our selection of our 15 favorite hotels around the world, across all travels! Beautifully arranged and decorated, the staff is attentive and wonderfully kind, the rooms are comfortable, plenty of activities are offered, the meals are excellent, and the massages are top-notch... a special mention for the areas set up specifically for couples to offer a romantic dinner on the beach!

The hotel is available on Booking and on Agoda.

Thailand off the beaten path is not only happening in the lush northern region: it's possible in the southern islands too! We loved returning to Thailand and already know that we will go back one day... All that's left is to add this to the travel agenda!

If you have any tips or feedback for exploring the southern Thailand off the beaten path, please share them in the comments: it will give us great ideas for next time!

Thanks to the Tourism Authority of Thailand for the invitation to this beautiful off-the-beaten-path journey. For more information to prepare your trip, I invite you to take a look at their website.

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