The Yucatan Islands: Cozumel, Isla Mujeres, and Holbox

Our trip to Mexico went from dream to reality when we crossed the border from Belize and arrived in Tulum. The Yucatan Peninsula welcomed us with open arms.

Ruins and archaeology. Caves and cenotes. Tortilla and tequila. Beaches and turquoise sea.

And it's these last two that are in the spotlight today, through three islands of the Yucatan: Cozumel, Isla Mujeres, and Holbox. Three islands offering three very different vibes!

From Tulum to Merida, we spent a month on the Yucatan Peninsula. We wouldn't have left so quickly if other projects weren't waiting for us on the other side of the ocean.

Our love for the sea and islands led us to set foot on the three islands that came one after another along our route. Without a desire to make a judgment or ranking, I share here my impressions, experiences, and favorites...

Our first Mexican island: Cozumel. Facing Playa del Carmen (the heart of our second honeymoon), the island attracted me for two reasons:

1. Its worldwide reputation among diving enthusiasts

2. A meeting to fulfill, with Emma, a blogger from Planet Addict, and her sister Laura

Result? Cozumel did not disappoint on either count!

Getting off the ferry (after a rough crossing), I thought that Cozumel didn't seem much different from Playa del Carmen that I had just left on the opposite shore. Crowds, luxury shops everywhere, vendors calling out to passersby on the street...

Tourism and money filled the air.

... And that scent was starting to wear on me!

Fortunately, once we left the waterfront street, the town began to take on a different face: that of a quaint village. What a joy to find colorful little houses, human-scale, half-overrun by vegetation! A little disorder in this world of concrete and luxury!

But our happiness didn't stop there. By meeting Emma and Laura, we stopped feeling the tourist scent of the island to smell the more authentic scent of daily life. These travelers who came to discover Latin America found themselves literally captivated by Cozumel. There was no turning back. And by then, it had been 7 months already!

On site, we explored the island by renting bikes and a car to cross Cozumel side to side and travel the road that hugs the southern coast of the island.

A few lovely beaches on the way, but mostly lots of hotel complexes and recreational areas, each with their private entrance and access to the sea.

After two amazing dive trips at Dos Ojos cenote, we were eager to get back underwater. Cozumel, known for its rich reefs, was the perfect opportunity!

And, just in case we had any hesitations, Emma and Laura, their dive master certificates in hand, were there to convince us!

Result? We had never dove in so much current. And the dive master overseeing us had never encountered a dive with such low visibility (which is saying something given his long career).

But despite all that, we really enjoyed these two dives. After some adjustment to the current and the concerns that come with it, these immersions were pure delight. An opportunity to play with the current and let ourselves glide peacefully (or fly, like a superhero defying gravity!).

To see footage from these dives in Cozumel, check out our travel video compiling dives in Mexico and Belize: Under the Waters of the Yucatan.

Cozumel in practice:

• How to get there: take the ferry from Playa del Carmen (about €10 each way)
• How to get around: car rentals are available (for example, a charmingly restored convertible beetle... but with no trunk or any closed storage space)
• What to see/do: diving and snorkeling (for example, at Cielo beach to see starfish), touring the island by car, excursions to Isla de la Pasion

Los Otates

A great find thanks to Emma, where you can enjoy typical cuisine in a friendly atmosphere for a good price-quality ratio.

Address: at the intersection of 15th Avenue South - 3rd Avenue South

Beach bar

Enjoying a drink facing the sea, seeing others take their time to swim or work (with reachable outlets... unlike the WiFi, which is terrible!) while avoiding very touristy spots: it's possible! Just head a bit north on the island...

Address: I recommend one of the first beach bars on the oceanfront avenue (towards the north of the island)

El Coffee Cozumel

THE place for a great breakfast and the best WiFi on the island! Service is a bit slow, but very friendly!

Address: at the very start of 3 South Street (between Rafael Melgar and 5th Avenue, next to a Pizza Hut)

Pirate

The last but not least address: the pirate ship! François, a lover of large and old ships, fell to the temptation. A very original evening, with an energetic crew fully in character, wild entertainment, and a lobster dinner: the class of a pirate!

Address: book online or at the meeting point: in front of the restaurant > Website: Caballito del Caribe

I could continue to talk about Cozumel, its history, and its importance in Mayan culture (a pilgrimage site and special worship for women and everything related to fertility, as Emma explains in this article), but now I'm taking you to our second Yucatan island: Isla Mujeres.

After Playa del Carmen and Cozumel, we're headed to Cancun and its neighboring island: Isla Mujeres.

Why this name >? (Island of women)

A question everyone asks... and it dates back to the discovery of the island by Spanish conquistadors in 1517. Upon landing, the colonists found numerous altars with offerings in feminine forms... In reality, these offerings were addressed to the Mayan goddess Ixchel, goddess of the moon, love, and fertility.

I wasn't expecting much from this island. Or perhaps I was. To find a village smell to escape > from Cancun.

First impressions matter... And let's just say we didn't start off on the right foot with Isla Mujeres! We received the worst welcome possible (of all our travels): barely arriving, a vendor yells at us without elegance or friendliness, saying in English:

Hey, rich people, come buy here!

Should I specify that we quickly hurried away?

Fortunately, once again, distancing ourselves from the center allowed us to discover the > of Isla Mujeres. It's quite impressive: the island is just a few meters wide, but once we arrived on the other shore, nothing! There was nothing and no one. No shops, no street vendors, no tourists. Nothing. Just the sea and its rocky beach. Phew! We can breathe!

Unfortunately, that means also the absence of shade. The sun beats down hard at these latitudes. It's impossible to stay too long without becoming a shrimp, unless one melts beforehand... And to find shade, you must go through tourist beaches, where a shaded lounge chair can be bargained for against a drink at the hotel bar. However, we have heard about the Garrafon Natural Reef Park, and frankly, if we return to this area of Mexico, we will certainly be tempted by the experience!

Isla Mujeres in practice:

• How to get there: take the ferry from Cancun (about €17 round trip)
• How to get around: you can rent golf carts, at a higher price than in Cozumel for !
• What to see/do: besides touring the island by golf cart, some excursions are available, many offering snorkeling with various animals

Beware of awareness! Tourist agencies often show photos of tourists holding small sharks in their arms: let's try not to encourage this kind of practice by refusing to partake in these excursions and raising awareness among both agencies and tourists!

Isla Mujeres is the only island where we did not stay overnight... And that's no coincidence. Now heading to our last little one: the island of Holbox.

Before talking about this lovely little island, you first need to learn how to pronounce its name!

As with many Mayan names (for example the beautiful ruins of Uxmal), the > is pronounced like a > in French. You are warned to avoid misunderstandings!

We decided to visit this island after hearing about the IPAF (International Public Art Festival) during which the town's houses get covered in paint in a festival atmosphere.

The purpose of this festival is to bring together artists from all over the world to create works inspired by the dreams of the inhabitants of Holbox. (...) We believe that the first step to realizing dreams is to identify and express the desires of the people to envision, together, the future of the island.

What a pleasure it was to step onto such a quiet island... even though it was hosting a regiment of Quebecers for the festival! A colorful atmosphere, just like its little houses. A gentle nonchalance and, above all, a palpable friendliness. Impeccable reception; you feel welcome... and not (only) for your wallet! Special shoutout to this small café on the main square, which welcomed me many times with kindness and generosity (even when closed! - see good addresses -).

With its 35 km long and 1 km wide, very little of the island is occupied, preserving its virgin and wild side. Holbox charmed us so much that we even considered buying a piece of land there... Who knows, maybe one day!

The entire island and surrounding waters are classified as a natural reserve. The number one attraction on the island is snorkeling with whale sharks (one of my dreams), but we weren't there during the right season (from June to mid-September): one more reason to return!

Despite this disappointment, we took the opportunity to discover the > of Holbox: those of the 3 islands, which are:

• Isla Pajaros (the island of birds): for observing endemic and migratory birds in their natural habitat, including brown and white pelicans, cormorants...

• The island of the Yalahau lagoon (nicknamed >): to swim in crystalline and refreshing water from a natural spring (a spring once used by pirates)

• and Isla Pasión (Passion Island): to walk along the beaches of a tiny Caribbean island and climb its observation tower.

In practice: Tour price: about €12 per person Duration: about 3 hours

From the > to the east, a lovely bike ride along the beach is possible. But you'll quickly be stopped by the strait that cuts the island in two (which can be crossed by kayak). The place is wild (and muddy!): ideal for birdwatching.

We also rode our bikes to the west until the end of the island (which is easily done in about 20 minutes). A very pleasant stroll where you feel alone in the world, especially if you go early in the morning.

It seems there are > (biting flies) inland, but we were not bothered.

Holbox in practice:

• How to get there: take a bus from Cancun to Chiquilla (about 2 hours by private transport, 3 to 4 by bus) and then take the ferry (about 30 minutes and €4)
• How to get around: you can rent bikes and golf carts
• What to see/do: some excursions are possible: classic tours to nearby small islands; snorkeling; fishing

Beware of scams: Fishermen's boats VS ferry: As soon as you arrive at the dock to cross from the village of Chiquilla, tourists are harassed by hordes of fishermen, one claiming that the ferry has left, another claiming he IS the ferry or better yet... And at first glance, nothing is done to facilitate navigation for tourists. We quickly understood that these fishermen were cutting the queue for the >, which waited for us at the end of the pier! The trip is safer and more comfortable on ferries, so do not hesitate to keep moving when the fishermen try to latch onto you! Two ferry companies: Once you've passed the fishermen's trial, you will face the rivalry between the two ferry companies: two boats (one red and one blue) that leave at exactly the same time (matching the bus schedule) and offer similar prices. Ultimately, we learned that the red company was the newest of the two... and also the slowest (but in the end, the difference is minimal).

Mama Rana

A restaurant/café that we warmly recommend. The reception is perfect, the service super, and although the menu prices are a bit high for the dishes, drinks are offered at quite standard rates. When we left the island and I said goodbye to the waiter from this restaurant (who welcomed us almost daily even when it was supposed to be closed!), I had tears in my eyes for receiving such pure kindness.

Address: on the main square

Illa Mar

A beachfront restaurant where you can enjoy good food at a fair price, and, most importantly, with your feet in the sand and a view of the sea!

Address: perpendicular to the beach (from the main square), opposite the fancy restaurant >

Hotel Los Arcos

Located in the center of the village, this hotel offers a great price-quality ratio, with clean rooms (private bathrooms) and the option to choose between a fan or air conditioning. A lovely little courtyard, where you can easily store your rental bike, a quiet hotel with a very friendly staff. The hotel is listed on Booking and Agoda.

Cozumel, Isla Mujeres, and Holbox: three Mexican islands to discover the Yucatan Peninsula in a different way. Three vibes and three very different experiences that we will not soon forget...

And you, have you ever traveled to the Yucatan? Have you been to any of these islands? Any tips or experiences to share?

To continue reading

More discoveries in Mexico

First Impressions of Mexico A Perfect Day in Tulum Playa del Carmen: Honeymoon Operation! Adventures in the Depths of Ek Balam Diving at Dos Ojos Cenote: a Journey into Another Dimension

More dream islands:

Favorite Destination: The Galapagos Favorite in Thailand: Koh Tao and Koh Samui A Guide to the Islands of Thailand Polynesia Journal (1/4): Huahine, The Secret Island