What to See in Southern Peru?

Are you heading to Southern Peru? Good idea! Even half of Peru is still a grand Peru!

You can visit islands in a natural reserve, discover mysteries in the driest desert in the world, embrace grandeur in the wild mountains, or play the adventurer in the jungle!

And if you're still not convinced about your choice, my article Peru: the Disneyland of Archaeologists will surely help!

So, what to see and do in Southern Peru: my tips in this article!

You have two options for landing in Southern Peru: either in the capital, Lima, or directly in Cusco.

Landing in Lima is cheaper. Moreover, you have the chance to see many interesting and even unmissable things while traveling to Cusco!

Landing directly in Cusco costs you more. Some may see the advantage of saving time and money on the buses that connect the capital to Cusco...

This only applies if you decide to land in Cusco and explore only this small (but very rich!) region of Peru.

So, it really depends on your travel plan. But if you have the time, I recommend heading from Lima, even though the city itself is not necessarily worth a special trip.

Update... After a second trip to the Peruvian capital, I have revised my judgment about it: Lima, a city to tame

Like all capitals, Lima is big, overcrowded, and noisy. The small pedestrian center offers a bit of respite, surrounded by buildings that have a soul and a history. Yet, as soon as you move away, you are surrounded by skyscrapers and major chain stores and fast food, the same as we have at home.

Visit the cathedral and be accompanied by a guide, as this cathedral is interesting for many reasons, and you might miss its secrets.

The entry ticket will also allow you to visit the archbishop's palace right next door.

As for convents and churches, I recommend two: San Francisco and Santo Domingo (founders of the Franciscan and Dominican orders).

Magnificent, I particularly remember its splendid wooden library, on several levels with spiral staircases (I love it!). The only regret: no photos are allowed in the convent.

Also very beautiful, and you can take all the photos you want (except on period paintings, but that makes sense). The specialty of the place: a tour of the catacombs, the largest in the city.

The Museum of Peruvian Gastronomy (free entrance) may inspire you with dishes to try!

Otherwise, I recommend visiting the two major museums in the city: the Rafael Larco Herrera Museum, especially known for its erotic collection, and the Museum of Archaeology and Anthropology of Peru.

From Lima, we took a bus directly to Ica. Another possibility is to head into the Andes, towards Huancayo then Ayacucho and Abancay to reach Cusco. But we have not (yet) tested this itinerary (saved for a future trip!).

For those who wish, you can stop along the way in Paracas, enjoying its natural park.

It is better known for its Ballestas Islands, home to sea lions, pelicans, penguins... These islands are reputed to be magnificent and are even nicknamed the Galapagos of Peru.

Ica is a small town that houses a modest archaeological museum (with the impressive elongated skulls from Paracas), as well as the mysterious small museum of Ica stones. I highly recommend reading our article on this, it's intriguing and fascinating!

From Ica, several expeditions are possible (an oasis to swim, sand surfing, quad biking... but it's not really our thing, so we didn't try).

A bus will take you to Nazca from Ica (in 2-3 hours). There will be a lot to see in Nazca, and you won't fail to admire this pre-Incan civilization that settled in the driest desert in the world. I refer you to this link to learn more.

The number one attraction is the small plane tour (4 passengers) over the mysterious lines. The plane is expensive (about $100/person + $25/person for airport taxes).

It's worth it, because the alternative is a slightly elevated point that will only allow you to see two of the symbols.

But the lines are not the only attraction in Nazca! Far from it.

Nazca is likely to become even more touristy in a few years when the excavations of Cahuachi have advanced well and the site is open to tourists.

This site, in the heart of the Atacama desert, contains an impressive number of pyramids: 36 pyramids, including 3 large ones.

Covering 24 km², the site could become the new Machu Picchu in terms of worldwide fame!

Also to see: the Chauchilla Cemetery.

This necropolis consists of several earthen tombs, like small houses, below ground level, housing mummies buried according to the Nazca ritual.

You can also enjoy a demonstration of artwork from that era and see how the Nazcas created their pottery, or how they harvested and worked gold.

You'll be able to hold in your small hands a genuine and authentic Nazca pottery! A great emotional moment for me!

Another little excursion that is worth the detour: the aqueducts. It's truly impressive to see these stone constructions that are over 2,000 years old: simple, beautiful, and efficient.

They still function today. Modern men, in their arrogance, have tried to improve them, but have only succeeded in partially destroying this precious heritage in this desert region.

Cusco is called the center of the world, and it's no coincidence. I challenge you not to fall under the charm of this city (and this region): it's impossible!

I will briefly present Cusco, the city and the region, but a whole article is dedicated to them: for those curious, read The Mysterious Charm of Cusco.

Everything! There is so much to say about Cusco and its region, and so much to see. We stayed there for 2 weeks, and we still haven't seen all that we wanted!

Be cautious of sudden altitude changes, as Cusco is located at 3,360 meters above sea level! To combat altitude sickness (sorroche) and the accompanying headache, Peruvians consume coca leaves, either to chew or brew in tea (or mate). You can also find it in candy form.

Take your time upon your arrival in Cusco. If possible, reserve a buffer day before heading out on your expedition.

To start, stroll through the city center, enjoy the ambiance, and the harmonious blend of half-Incan, half-Spanish walls, adorned with colonial balconies and lamp-posts reminiscent of Incan patterns. Also wander through the San Blas neighborhood, undoubtedly the most charming of all.

The tourist ticket will grant you access to 16 museums and archaeological sites within the city and its surroundings (you'll need it for, for example, the visits for the city tour). It can be purchased in Cusco or at the entrance of certain sites. Unfortunately, churches are not included in this ticket.

The Regional Historical Museum (Casa del Inca Garcilaso de la Vega) is particularly interesting, concerning the rebellion and liberation from Spanish rule.

The Archaeological Museum (where you'll find some ceramics depicting erotic scenes) covers pre-Incan history and the 3 Incan eras.

The Chocolate Museum is free entry and offers a new perspective on local culture!

The main tours in the Cusco region are:

Given all that's to say about each of these tours, I detail them in another article.

This half-day outing will allow you to visit the main archaeological sites near the city: Sacsayhuamán (2 km from the city center), Q'enko, Tambomachay, Puka Pukara.

It is possible to see (most of) these sites independently by taking a taxi. You will find guides directly at the entrance to the main sites.

The circuit leads us through this Sacred Valley from Inca times, to Pisaq (the site then its village known for its market), Ollantaytambo, and typically stops at Chinchero on the way back.

Unfortunately, heavy rains had damaged the bridge to Chinchero, which was inaccessible during our trip (January 2013).

You will stop in Chinchero for a demonstration of fabric production by artisan weavers.

Then, head towards the archaeological complex of Moray, which resembles an amphitheater, but would actually be an Inca agricultural research center.

Finally, you will discover Maras, famous for its Inca salt ponds in the mountains. Impressive!

We didn't take the tour to the Southern Valley (you have to make choices!), but we saw several places included in this tour while taking the bus to Puno.

This tour typically includes: the chapel of Andahuayllas, Tipón, Piquillacta, and Raqchi.

This bus stops at the main points of interest scattered along the route and allows us to see places we would never have been able to visit otherwise, such as the chapel of Andahuayllas, as well as Raqchi and Pukara. The bus also makes a stop at the highest point of our journey: 4338 meters.

Leaving Cusco, we headed towards Lake Titicaca and Bolivia. So we did not see Arequipa, unfortunately. But it's also on our list for a future trip to Peru!

For more information... The complete article on Machu Picchu can be read here: >. For those curious, my adventure at Machu Picchu is described in this article.

There are three different tickets to see Machu Picchu:

During our trip, we chose the intermediate difficulty level: Huayna Picchu (and it was already quite athletic! But what a satisfaction at the summit and what a view!).

In any case, you must reserve your ticket either online or upon arriving in Peru (in any travel agency). The number of entries per day is limited: 2500 entries for the site, but only 400 people can access Wayna Picchu.

Students can only reserve on-site. We reserved from Cusco to keep maximum flexibility and freedom in our travel itinerary.

Attention: make sure to comply with the entry times for Huayna Picchu or the mountain indicated on your tickets!

From Cusco, to get to Machu Picchu, you can:

From Santa Teresa, I recommend walking to Aguas Calientes instead of taking the train: besides saving money, you'll enjoy a beautiful walk! The trail isn't too difficult (it only climbs a bit at the beginning; after that, just follow the train tracks on one side and the river on the other, and it's pretty flat), and it takes a little over 2 hours.

However, from Aguas Calientes to the site entrance, prefer the bus (around $15) over walking. You'll arrive more easily first by bus (if you wake up early enough, as I did, to be on the first bus leaving at 5:30 am and arriving for the site's opening at 6 am). The uphill walk is long and arduous, and in the dark, I find it less than pleasant. Plus, you risk arriving exhausted to begin exploring the site, which will also require energy!

Above all, do not take a taxi between Ollantaytambo and Santa Teresa: the road is dangerous, and the cars are at a disadvantage.

We made the mistake of going through an agency from Cusco to visit Machu Picchu: avoid!!! It will only bring you constraints (and unnecessary expenses!).

There are guides all over the site. You can hire one at the entrance or simply eavesdrop near groups (tours are predominantly in Spanish and English).

Take your time and save your strength to prolong the enjoyment!

Be cautious, there are no toilets, food, or even drinks on the site. There is a structure at the entrance, but everything is horrendously expensive, so be prepared!

If there's one site I'd still like to see in the Cusco region, it's Choquequirao. Considered the last Inca refuge, the city of Choquequirao is lost in the mountainous jungle.

Much less accessible than Machu Picchu (a 5-day trek), this city is thus much less touristy.

I wanted to go there, but unfortunately in January - the rainy season - the paths to get there are not passable. It'll be for another time...!

Getting to the jungle from Cusco is very easy; several agencies offer tours, but you can also take the bus (~10-hour journey) and look for a tour once you arrive in Puerto Maldonado. Depending on the season, you may not be able to go just anywhere (even if some agencies continue to offer tours, check on safety before!)).

The ideal times, according to our guide, to visit the jungle would be April - May or September - October (the rainy season being from November to March): optimal in terms of weather and temperatures, mosquito risks, and the chance to see animals.

See my more detailed article on what to be attentive to before an expedition to the jungle.

Regarding necessary equipment, you can find what you need on-site (DEET, covering clothing...): we completed our gear in pharmacies and hiking stores in Cusco.

Once on-site, be mindful of the rules of life in the jungle:

In general, be cautious and always think about the well-being of the animals: don't chase after them constantly! (Even if it's sometimes tempting!)

The last and... the least: I finish with the last site visited in Peru during my trip in January, but it certainly won't be the one that stays engraved in my heart!

But... in Peru, there is more than just Machu Picchu! This country has incredible cultural, natural, and historical wealth. After 3 trips, we are still far from having seen it all.

So to wrap up this article beautifully, I invite you to be inspired by this little video that presents an overview of Southern Peru...

I hope I've inspired you to go there (or to return)... for me, at least that's the case! So, when are we leaving?!

And I leave the final word to this Peruvian proverb, to reflect upon: